Well completed another adventure on the todo list. The Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim non stop. This is an adventure that many trail runners and hikers want to complete. Some do it over 2 or 3 days and some like myself attempt it non stop. The stats below are estimated because my watch died at Phantom Ranch at mile 36 (57k)
Route: South Kaibab > North Kaibab > Bright Angel
Stats:
| Distance: | 45 miles (74k) (estimated) |
| Elevation Gain: | 11354ft (3460m) (estimated) |
| Time: | 24:18:00 |
I stopped by the parks Backcountry Information Center to talk to a ranger and make sure water was available in the canyon and what the trail conditions were. They tried to discourage attempting this this time of year because of the heat. The temperatures at the rim were averaging around 90f (32c) + or – a few degrees. But the temperatures in the canyon were between 100-110f (37-43c).
I used the pack I planed to use for G2G Stage Race later this year. It is the same model I used last year, but one size smaller. It seems to fits a little better than the one I used last year and is comfortable. I had a few pack attachments I wanted to test out that found at REI. One of the down sides to the Ultimate Direction Fast Pack 20 is the pockets on the shoulder strap, they are small and don’t hold ver much. The small zippered compartments I found I can attach to the outside of the pack, one on the front for fuel and drink mix and one on the back for miscellaneous items. They worked out well. The down side to using this pack for this adventure was I probably carried more than I needed to; both volume and weight.
The adventure began with my friend Sylvia (a friend I met at G2G last year). Because of the heat we started at 4:30pm in the South Kaibab trail hoping to get through the canyon during the night and early morning hours to avoid as much of the heat as possible. It was cloudy and the temperature was mild when we left the canyon rim. But as we descended the air steadily got warmer and warmer. The views coming down the South Kaibab trail were stunning, there were more than one stop to enjoy the moment and take in the views. When we reached Phantom Ranch Canteen at the bottom of the canyon it was hot. It took about 2.5 hours to get the 7.5 miles from the rim to Phantom Ranch and enjoy a cup (or 2) of there world famous lemonade.
After refilling the water bottles, at this point Sylvia and I split up. One of my goals of this adventure was to complete it in under 24 hours. To do that I had to keep moving and minimize the breaks, Sylvia wanted to move at a different pace. So we split and each had our own adventure.
The next few miles leaving Phantom Ranch heading toward the North Rim is one of the most beautiful parts of the trails. This part of the trail you are at the bottom of the canyon with shear canyon walls going straight up above you. The colors, the ruggedness and the sheer size and depth is just stunning. There is no way to describe it properly. It has to be experienced.
About 45min after leaving Phantom Ranch it was time to breakout the head lamps because darkness was setting in. So the next 10 hours or so would be in the dark and only able to see as far as the head lamp illuminated. The only stops from here to the North Rim were at Cottonwood Campground and Manzanita Rest stop to fill up the water bottles. It did start to cool off slowly the further up the canyon I got.
Manzanita Rest Stop is the last place at the bottom of the canyon to fill up with water before starting to ascent to the North Rim. From this point it is 5.4 miles (8.4k) with 4600ft (1402k) of elevation gain. It is one tough relentless climb to the top. One thing I realized, it is better to do these difficult ascents at night because you can only see as far as your head lamp shines, so you don’t know how much longer the difficulty will last. As I neared the North Rim somewhere around 2am I started to see head lamps coming towards me. This is an usual time for hikers and runners to start to attempt a Rim to Rim (North to South).I crossed paths with 6 or 8 people on my way up. After almost 10.5 hours/21.7 miles (35k) I crested the North Rim. I didn’t hang for very long, it was cold and windy at the top, around 45f (7c). I refilled my bottles and started defending back down the canyon.
The decent was mostly uneventful and in the dark. It was nice to get a break from climbing. Sylvia and I crossed paths after I had descended for about 20 or 30 minutes. We chatted for a few minutes and both keep moving. I was finally able to turn my headlamp off with few miles to go until I reached Manzanita Rest Stop. There is a section coming down not to far from the bottom that is absolutely beautiful. The trail is cut into the side of a cliff and with shear canyon walls above and below. Its so beautiful.
So far during the adventure I had been, eating Honey Stinger Waffles and Spring Energy Gels for nutrition. I didn’t think that would be enough, so I brought along a Mountain House freeze dried meal. They contain about 600 calories to re-energize and lots of much needed salt. When I arrived back at Manzanita Rest Station I heated up some water and had a proper meal and a 45min rest. While I was there some couples and groups came in from the North Rim. As it turned out and the day progressed I ended up spending some trail time and chatting with a few of them and though-out the rest of the day as we flip flopped back and forth.
As I left Manzanita sleep deprivation was starting to set in. I had been awake for over 24 hours at this point and traveled over 27 miles. But I just kept pushing on, one foot in front of the other. The next couple of hours weren’t to bad hiking in the early morning. It took a while before the sun was high enough to get into the canyon, but once it did it warmed up pretty quick. I was still moving really well and making sure to stop and enjoy the views (part off the WHY). I rolled back into Phantom Ranch about 10:30am and was pretty close to the time I had hoped to be there. At that point I had about 9 mile left up the Bright Angle Trail and thought great I should be able to get this done inside of 24 hours with time to spare (ha ha ha ha).
I left Phantom Ranch after a short break and some more lemonade and crossed the Colorado River and onto the Bright Angle Trail. The first 3 miles or so weren’t to bad, mostly flat to rolling hills. Then….the switch backs began (Switch Back = Steep 🤣 ). From this point forward it was just hard. About half way up Bright Angel trail the sleep deprivation as getting worse. The temperature had risen and it had gotten quite hot and was getting hotter. I stopped eating because nothing I had was appealing. Although I was filling my water bottles every opportunity I got, I ran out of water a one point and had to filter some creek water to get me to the next normal water stop. Once you are 4.5 miles from the rim on the Bright Angle Trail there is a water source every 1.5 mile. Thankfully they are there because I needed water at everyone. Starting at about 5 miles from the rim I was staring to hallucinate more and more. I was starting see and hear things that weren’t there. It put a smile on my face every-time I realized what I thought I saw or heard wasn’t real.
But finally after battling the switchbacks, the relentless climb and lack of sleep, about 4:50pm I finally made my way out of the canyon and on to the rim. It was quite a sense of relief knowing that I finished.
After a few days of recovery I can say it was worth it. I love the challenge, I love seeing beautiful places. I probably would try to again, but at a cooler time of the year.
#speedgoat50k #g2g2024 #arizona #grandcanyon #r2r2r #tryhardthings #challengeyourself #getoutside #putasmileonsomeonesface #wakeupwiththebirds #trailrunning #cautionslowrunner #speakupformentalhealth #thankful #luckyman #blessed
